Backpacking through Europe with Eurail – Amalfi Coast, Italy
After being mucked around in the hostel in Napoli we were overly excited about the next step in our trip, even if it was only excitement to have our own room and bathroom! I don’t think I was quite so prepared for what the Amalfi Coast had in store for us… It still feels a bit dream-like.
Getting to Amalfi from Napoli was as easy as a 30-minute train ride, followed by an hour bus ride from the coastal town of Salerno. The bus trip however is not for the faint at heart. The road is about 500 meters above the sea along Italy’s rocky western coast. The further you go – the more beautiful and idyllic it becomes, I suggest to sidetrack your mind as much as possible since I spent most of the trip concentrating on not vomiting… As those twisty turny curves were bringing back horrible childhood carsickness memories.
When I wasn’t huddled up against Morgan, wishing I could be anywhere but on that bus, I did manage to catch some of that beautiful scenery… The far stretching ocean of bluey greenness, lined by the stunningly rocky landscape that is dotted with fruit trees covered in netting amongst the worn traditional Italian lilliput lane houses. It was simply amazing and I have to say in the 5 months we have been traveling it is most definitely one of my favourite places.
Our guesthouse was a minute from the bus stop and was almost perfect. We had 180 degree views, our own kitchen and bathroom, and a comfy bed. The only downer was that for our 2-night stay we never experienced a smidge of hot water, despite complaining 2 or 3 times. It didn’t get us down though, actually I think you would be hard pushed not to have a great time anywhere on the Amalfi Coast.
We had big plans for the next day to explore the coast further however we were so impressed by the beauty of the Amalfi village and had been infected by its relaxed nature that we didn’t feel like traveling further and simply wanted to enjoy our beautiful little spot as much as possible. So we spent the day roaming the cobbled streets and passageways, eating the famed Italian gelato and cooking up a storm in our kitchen overlooking the ocean. We ended up eating our traditional bolognaise accompanied by a bottle of vino (from the gorgeous hilltop village of Ravello) at 11:30am!!! As the Italians say ‘dolce far niente’ – the sweetness of doing nothing.
Our time in Amalfi was one not to be forgotten and next time we will definitely be going back for 5+ nights and I think we will pay the little bit extra to take the ferry instead of the bus next as well!!
